Decided it was way too
cold to take the Tiger out, as well as the indicators not
working (although I have the doors off so I can use hand signals) and
had all the electrics exposed ready for the replacement flasher unit
arriving. So got into the Volvo and nothing but clicks,
battery flat !!
So off I went, and used hand signals for the first 2 turns then at
the first roundabout force of habit made me select the
indicator. And it worked perfectly :-)
I can only assume the flasher unit has dried out, but I had put it onto
a warm radiator for 2 hours 2 days ago and it hadn't worked, but 24 hrs
in a freezing cold garage and it is OK. Go figure !! At least I will
have a spare flasher unit
Also came in useful to check battery and alternator. And as you
can see they are both bang on specification, 12.5 V with just the battery and 14.0V when alternator working. And it only dropped to
13.7V when I put the headlights on, again as per specification.
Before Start After Start
So just the reversing lights to fix now.
SuperSpec
Saturday, 24 January 2015
Sunday, 18 January 2015
Aftermath of the Long Journey
Although it was a fun journey to Bedford it did upset the car a bit.
When I checked this morning I found that:
1. The nearside fog light unit mounting bracket had broken and the light had fallen off and was hanging by the wire.
2. The brake lights were going on when the clutch was pressed.
3. The indicators were not working.
4. The reversing lights were not working.
Remounted the fog light by removing the mounting bracket, drilling a hole in the plastic back of the light and using the same hole in the panel to bolt it direct to the body. I think the new direct version looks better, flush with the body and much more sturdy. Might redo the offside one to match.
Found that pushing the clutch in was slightly rotating the bar that holds the brake and throttle pedals. So a spray of WD40 and a minor adjustment of my new brake light switch and that was fixed.
Indicator almost certainly a failed flasher unit as when I took it out of the plastic bag I had put it on before it was soaking wet with condensation. And the hazards work so the fundamental circuitry and bulbs are fine. New one on order.
The reversing light is frustrating. The fuse is OK and neither light is working so I think I may have disturbed the switch on the gearbox when I was rooting around the fuel pipes to see if there was a leak. Can't see anything by looking down through tunnel opening. I think I will have to get her up on ramps to look from underneath. Not a showstopper as I can always remove the lights and put blanking plugs in for the MOT. They are not a requirement but must be working if fitted. Most 2Bs don't have them fitted.
Lots to keep me busy, but car still drivable on the road so I don't have to stay housebound.
When I checked this morning I found that:
1. The nearside fog light unit mounting bracket had broken and the light had fallen off and was hanging by the wire.
2. The brake lights were going on when the clutch was pressed.
3. The indicators were not working.
4. The reversing lights were not working.
Remounted the fog light by removing the mounting bracket, drilling a hole in the plastic back of the light and using the same hole in the panel to bolt it direct to the body. I think the new direct version looks better, flush with the body and much more sturdy. Might redo the offside one to match.
Found that pushing the clutch in was slightly rotating the bar that holds the brake and throttle pedals. So a spray of WD40 and a minor adjustment of my new brake light switch and that was fixed.
Indicator almost certainly a failed flasher unit as when I took it out of the plastic bag I had put it on before it was soaking wet with condensation. And the hazards work so the fundamental circuitry and bulbs are fine. New one on order.
The reversing light is frustrating. The fuse is OK and neither light is working so I think I may have disturbed the switch on the gearbox when I was rooting around the fuel pipes to see if there was a leak. Can't see anything by looking down through tunnel opening. I think I will have to get her up on ramps to look from underneath. Not a showstopper as I can always remove the lights and put blanking plugs in for the MOT. They are not a requirement but must be working if fitted. Most 2Bs don't have them fitted.
Lots to keep me busy, but car still drivable on the road so I don't have to stay housebound.
Friday, 16 January 2015
10,000 miles
Took her on a 120 mile round trip today to meet a new owner who has a part-built Superspec. He wanted to see a completed version and I wanted to see a 'naked' one so it was useful for both of us. Also picked up an old friend on the way I hadn't seen for 10 years as he wanted a look as well. Took the A1 on the way down which was pretty boring, so came back the scenic route through country lanes and lots of villages. Was doing well until I hit a snowstorm. Luckily I saw it ahead, so had time to put the top up.
And on the way passed this milestone. She had 6,500 on the clock when I bought her, so I still have another 3000 miles to do to match the previous owner.
And on the way passed this milestone. She had 6,500 on the clock when I bought her, so I still have another 3000 miles to do to match the previous owner.
Tuesday, 13 January 2015
Petrol Smell - Solved ?
Took her out for a 20 mile run this morning and there was no trace of any petrol smell (and got caught in a snowstorm!). And adding to that the advice on the RHOCaR forum and the fact that there was a very strong smell of petrol in the garage a couple of hours after returning yesterday I think I have narrowed down the problem. This is the 'wiring diagram' of the fuel system
The previous owner tells me he replaced the braided pipe between the filter and injection rail as it was being corroded by modern, ethanol added, fuel. So I suspect the other piece of braided pipe is going the same way. Under normal driving conditions there is no problem, but if the car remains stationary for more than a few days then the pipe starts to absorb petrol. Once the car is started nothing happens for the first couple of minutes but when the engine heats up it starts to evaporate the absorbed petrol (and the smell comes up through the dashboard and tunnel). However, once the car is put away with the engine still hot it continues to evaporate for a few hours, hence the smell in the garage a couple of hours later. By the next morning all the absorbed petrol has evaporated so the smell goes away.
So obviously the fix is to replace the second piece of braided pipe with the latest ethanol-resisted fuel pipe. But this is not an easy fix so I will live with for now, knowing that a quick 'blast around the block' after a lay up will cure the problem overnight.
The previous owner tells me he replaced the braided pipe between the filter and injection rail as it was being corroded by modern, ethanol added, fuel. So I suspect the other piece of braided pipe is going the same way. Under normal driving conditions there is no problem, but if the car remains stationary for more than a few days then the pipe starts to absorb petrol. Once the car is started nothing happens for the first couple of minutes but when the engine heats up it starts to evaporate the absorbed petrol (and the smell comes up through the dashboard and tunnel). However, once the car is put away with the engine still hot it continues to evaporate for a few hours, hence the smell in the garage a couple of hours later. By the next morning all the absorbed petrol has evaporated so the smell goes away.
So obviously the fix is to replace the second piece of braided pipe with the latest ethanol-resisted fuel pipe. But this is not an easy fix so I will live with for now, knowing that a quick 'blast around the block' after a lay up will cure the problem overnight.
Monday, 12 January 2015
Petrol Smell - revisited
Back from an extended holiday. Having left the car stationary for 6 weeks this was an ideal time to revisit the petrol smell as I have now proved that it occurs only after the car is not used for some time.
So first thing to do was expose as much of the petrol pipe as I could, the fuel sender, through the back bulkhead, along the centre tunnel, into the fuel filter in the engine bay and then to the fuel injectors.
Initially there was no smell at all, so I could eliminate a permanent leak.
The next stage was to turn the ignition on so the fuel pump would pressurise the system. Did this and after 10 minutes there was still no smell.
Next step was to run the engine, so did that and after 2 minutes still no sign of a smell.
Final step was a run around the block. After a couple of minutes the smell started and by the time I got back to the garage it was quite strong.
So checked around and there was no smell around the engine or the boot or the back of the tunnel, but a very strong smell coming up thought the front of the tunnel by the gearbox. But as far as I could feel there was no leak to create the smell.
So I now know the problem lies between the front of the tunnel, where the fuel pipe from the rear is connected to a pipe coming from the filter. Unfortunately that is very difficult to access so will have to consider what next.
So first thing to do was expose as much of the petrol pipe as I could, the fuel sender, through the back bulkhead, along the centre tunnel, into the fuel filter in the engine bay and then to the fuel injectors.
The next stage was to turn the ignition on so the fuel pump would pressurise the system. Did this and after 10 minutes there was still no smell.
Next step was to run the engine, so did that and after 2 minutes still no sign of a smell.
Final step was a run around the block. After a couple of minutes the smell started and by the time I got back to the garage it was quite strong.
So checked around and there was no smell around the engine or the boot or the back of the tunnel, but a very strong smell coming up thought the front of the tunnel by the gearbox. But as far as I could feel there was no leak to create the smell.
So I now know the problem lies between the front of the tunnel, where the fuel pipe from the rear is connected to a pipe coming from the filter. Unfortunately that is very difficult to access so will have to consider what next.
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